Charismatic Megafauna - Time To Go

-13 this pre-sunrise Fairbanks morning and the song Charismatic Megafauna by the Ratfish Wranglers (a strummy Alaskan punk folk band - think Bare Naked Ladies crossed with the Vampire Beach Babes) is blaring within my cranium. 10 days ago I came to Fairbanks following in the steps of Jack London and the adventure of the Yukon Territory, today I leave 10 days later. I have new friends Jess, Murray, Johnny, Susan, Larry. Jameson and a closer friendship with my pal Marty. The 7 of us tacked the Northern Lights for 6 days and ate great.

One of the highlights was on the road to the Chena Hot Springs Resort. We had found a trappers cache, a sort of free standing tree house on stilts. It had a wooden ladder, moose antlers and a moose jaw at it's enterance. We wanted to use it as prop for the foreground of our photography. The cache was located in frontof the Angel Creek Lodge/Saloon. A log cabin that was a big rectangle, on the left was the bar, the right was the liqour store part. It had 9 bottles of booze. The customary pool table was on the right hand side while a tubular wood burning stove with a convection fan on top, was in the mid-left foreground.  Seka the tan white lab roamed the premises with a laconic ambling that reflected true ownership in the building. We stopped for a drink and to plot our next few hours. Some of us bellied up to the bar and got a Makers Mark bourbon or wine. We were the only people there and as we talked, laughed and grew into our seats we started to feel really comfortable. The bar was laden with tchochki momentos - antlers here, a cheesehead there, my favorite bumper sticker on the trip so far: "Eat Moose, 12,000 wolves can't be wrong!" all made it this lodge charmingly tacky.

Our waitress Maria made the room warmer. She was of a certain age or slightly older. She wore jeans and a gray Harley Davidson T-Shirt. A petite figure,dirty blond pulled back she made sure everyone was happy. Steve, owner and bartender, not the same. A 6 foot curmudgeon Steve, with a truckers hat, begrudgingly got us our drinks.Our team gelled and felt very comfortable together, much more comfortable than our suburban. We left Angel Creek feeling we should go back. We went to Chena Hot Springs and waited for a teammate to bath in the rejuvenating waters of Chena. We went to check out dinner at Chena and almost immediately called Angel Creek, "will you stay open for dinner for 7?" Curmudgeon Steve answered, "Are guys the old group or the young group." I guess he didn't like the younger group. We went back for burgers and had a blast. We would soldier on into the hours of the night where morning starts, taking pictures, but I think Angel Creek is one of my highlights.

The green dreamsicle.

Wafting across the way

The lights dancing into view.

Makers Mark - artificial heat!

Me by Murray

Marty & Murray enjoy a drink while Seka decides to recline wherever she wants.

On the road home from Angel Creek.

More from the icy road back.

Angel Creek Cabins under the lights

  

Chasing Rainbows @ Night

"Meet us downstairs at 9:30!" came the call from Jess our 6'3", gray bearded, 220 pound leader. His maroon baseball hat protecting his wide eyes with crows feet etched by decades in the American Wilderness. Jess is laid back, but all business when it comes to photography. He knows that the prime time to catch the Aurora Bourealis is between 10:30pm and 2am. Experience, not science, taught our leader that.

I should be excited but I hit peak REM sleep 15 minutes before the call. So whatever energy I do have is devoted to putting on my Bass Pro long underwear, Smartwool socks, Columbia orange undershirt, Northface Green & Gray stripe crew neck fleece shirt. Then the thinsulate lined jeans, REI waterproof pants, and black Baffin boots. I have two jackets but I'm sweating like a preacher in a whorehouse. So I grab my gear and only put on one jacket. The reliable favorite Orvis field coat is in hand, on reserve.

Our team piles into the Suburban and pile is being generous. Pour might be a better word. Of the six teammates, none are of athletic build and half, myself included, are above average...in weight. We start driving into the black Alaskan abyss. Jess has a garmin GPS. He is reading it extemporaneously glancing at the icy road, the sky and the Garmin. At least our seat belts are fastened...most of us.

After forty minutes of navigation we get a tour bus behind us. Evidently, I'm told, this is not a good omen. Too many people, too much light, too much everything. We get to a parking lot and there are two buses, a Winnebego, three Ford Taurus' and us. The parking lot would continue to fill like my wineglass with a Girard Cabernet 

We get out, grab our equipment, and look up: A zillion stars. The few times there is no light from the parade of vehicles and photographers, the sky is brilliant. I'm looking at the Big Dipper and Cassiopea constellations with my new friend Johnny. I have never seen so many stars, so bright. The earth's jet black ink well just had some splash from a nearby glass of milk.

I try to set up my camera and Jess shows me what I'm doing wrong. He does have the patience of Job.Anyway, abuzz now circulates around the parking lot. My teammate Murray, who in his arctic gear looks like a shorter, red Michelin Man, says "Do you see it?" I'm like "?". "That" replies Murray.

A thin greenish ribbon cuts a swath through the midnight abyss. Then I look at his camera display and it hits me. The sky is beautiful but with a camera I can find a rainbow in the dark. A brilliant green ribbon with a red header knifes through the evening. I have found the Northern Lights. Photography illuminates the breath of God. I have found the rainbow at night.

The parking lot. The bright light below is Fairbanks about 45 miles away.

The Northern Lights. I'm still mastering my camera AND I haven't edited anything yet. Please be patient.

Picture This.....Heather!

I am in Alaska on photo safari and my good friend Heather pointed out that I hadn't posted any pictures. Last I night I took over 200 so I would like to edit before I show anything but...because I love Heather...here are a few:

My Team! Chubby can't wait to get started...like me!

Leaving the warm tropics for the Arctic Circle. Where's the red line from the globe?

Denali on the horizon.

Todd getting the Cessna ready to go back to Fairbanks. Where's the runway?

Coming out of a steep turn leaving Coldfoot.

My girlfriend Winnie in Coldfoot.

Indian Gil playing Harp on sushi...um frozen fish?

Same girl, only closer playing harp.

The Aliens are coming!

"Chief, the Greeks did take your land! We merely opened restaurants so you could eat!"

Not sure the first argument worked.

Driving the dogs mad. I would say "Mush!" and they would reply "Lose Weight!"

Heading into the narrow trail ahead.

So some pictures round one. I'll keep this stuff short so Heather can understand :)

Ice Ice Baby

Last night I saw a giant Cossack, a man conducting a symphony on a fish, stared down a Comanche with an arrow at my face, an alien sliding to earth and a matador taking on a bull, and I'm just getting started! All made of a single block of ice. It was the Ice Carving World Championships in Fairbanks and for two hours I walked through a crystal menagerie of frozen art. Imagine those glass blown figurines from the county fair now 10' tall.

Fairbanks has special ice I was told (personally I lost the recipe a few years ago) and so that why the championships are here. The biggest challenge is the weather hitting the 30s or above. On the giant sculptures you could see the effects of heat as tree had broken down and the tip of a menacing sword was missing.

People from all over the world competed here. All the competitors, from China, Russia, Poland, Norway, New Zealand, Portland, donated there time and built an amusement park for kids complete with long slides and cups to twirl in. Where was this when I was a kid? It was Christmas time all over again!